Many sewists nowadays are self-taught, learning the craft through online video tutorials or by following written patterns. Since many people don't have easy access to in-person sewing classes, these resources are a great way to allow anyone to join the sewing community. However, independent study can also make the learning process more challenging: many foundational sewing skills aren't commonly taught or mentioned in patterns and tutorials. So I've put together this list of essential practices to help jump-start your sewing life.

1. Press, Press, Press

Using your iron to press seams is probably the biggest factor in giving your garment a clean, professional finish. Ironing and pressing are actually two different techniques: ironing involves moving the iron back and forth to remove wrinkles, while pressing is holding the iron in one spot to flatten or "set" a seam. By pressing each seam as soon as you've sewn it, you set yourself up for a garment that drapes and fits better.

2. Prewash Your Fabric

Many fabrics shrink slightly or change texture after washing and drying. If you sew the garment without first washing the fabric, you risk ending up with puckered seams or a poor fit. Always wash and dry the fabric in the same way you plan to wash the finished piece.

3. Make a Mockup

This one took me a long time to learn, but there's no way around it: make a trial version of your garment out of inexpensive fabric before cutting into "the good stuff." The mockup allows you to troubleshoot any issues with construction, fit, or style, so that your final version will be something you can wear with pride. Almost every time I've chosen to skip the mockup stage, I've ended up regretting it — so learn from my mistakes!

4. Test Your Tension

Before you start sewing the first seam on a new project, use a scrap of the fabric to check the tension on your sewing machine. Tension refers to the balance between the upper and lower threads that join to make the seam. When the tension is unbalanced, the stitches will appear loose or bumpy on one or both sides, and the seam won't be as strong. For an excellent guide to balancing tension, check out The Sewing Machine Newsletter by Cale Schoenberg.

5. Backstitch

This is one of those tiny steps in sewing that can lead to disaster if not followed: in most cases, when you finish a seam, you'll want to secure it by reversing the direction of your machine and backstitching for just a few stitches. If this step is skipped, the seam can easily come apart, especially if it's in an area that is subject to stress (like armholes or pocket openings).

6. Raise The Needle

In machine sewing, there are two points at which it's important to use the handwheel to raise your needle to its highest position: when you thread the needle, and when you finish a seam and pull the garment out to snip the threads. If the needle isn't in its highest position when threading, the thread will fall out when the needle is raised. And if you try to pull the fabric out with the needle lowered, you'll run into a variety of problems, from a bent needle to tangled bobbin thread.

7. Lower the Presser Foot

Another rite of passage for self-taught sewists is learning about the presser foot! While you need to raise the foot to place your fabric under the needle, it's essential to lower it before beginning to sew. The foot holds the fabric in place and ensures that the upper and lower threads are joining correctly to make a strong seam.

8. Trim Your Threads

Part of what I like about sewing is the variety: there are so many little tasks to complete as part of a larger project. Trimming excess thread is one of those little tasks that you'll want to do as you go, rather than leaving thread tails to deal with once the garment is complete. Save yourself some time by trimming the tails as soon as you finish each seam. (I recommend investing in some thread snips: I use Havel's Dura Snips from Wawak!)

9. Finish Seam Allowances

Some patternmakers are starting to include better directions for this step, but it's often overlooked in patterns. Once you're sure that you don't need to change the seam (i.e. let it out to make more room in the garment), you'll want to trim the seam allowances down and finish them so that the fabric doesn't unravel. I usually finish raw edges with a simple zigzag stitch; for delicate fabrics or a cleaner finish, I recommend flat-felled or French seams.

10. Ditch the Deadline

This last tip is more philosophical than practical, but I see many new sewists experiencing a lot of stress and frustration because they've set themselves a deadline, and they're struggling to meet it. I recommend avoiding projects with a hard finish date: you never know what obstacles you'll encounter, whether in the sewing and construction process or just life itself. Removing the time pressure will let you focus on precision, which leads to a better result (and hopefully a more enjoyable journey to get there).

I hope you find the above tips helpful for your own sewing practice. And if you want to learn even more (and you're in the Greater Sacramento/Sierra Foothills area), consider signing up for an introductory lesson with me!