I saw a photo of this vintage 1940s pattern online and loved the look of the tops, especially the way the sleeve and yoke met the bodice to create an angled armscye. Unable to track down the actual pattern, I decided to try creating my own version instead. Making a garment based on a single pattern illustration felt like unlocking a superpower!

After sketching in my notebook, I had a good idea of the basic shapes that I needed for the top, but it took 3 bedsheet mockups to properly fit the yoke and sleeve. Sometimes, mockups end up changing the design: during the fitting process, I decided that I liked the cap sleeve look better than my original plan for balloon sleeves. (I did create those sleeves eventually, though: check out variation B of this top.)

Sometimes it takes me a while to nail down specifics for a planned garment, but the idea of making this piece in burgundy cotton gauze came to me pretty quickly. Cotton gauze is one of my favorite textiles for apparel making: it’s affordable, versatile, breathable, easy to sew, and — at least if you’re shopping at World Class Textile in Sacramento — it comes in a wide variety of colors.

One of my favorite features of this top is that it can be worn two ways: tied at the neck or left open. I find that the tied version has more of a 1940s feel, like the inspiration sketch, while the open version feels more boho and casual.