This skirt started as an idea in my head that I just had to get out on paper. I knew I wanted a long, straight skirt with a lace overlay and pleats at the waist that were stitched down to hip level, then left open. So… where to go from there?

I started with a basic skirt block, then did a lot of math to create tapered box pleats at the waist. Typical pleats fold the fabric over along parallel lines, but since I wanted these pleats to also provide waist shaping (in other words, to make the skirt smaller at the waist than at the hips), I made them wider at the top than at the bottom. I also added slant pockets, because — like most sewists — I find that one of the main benefits of making my own clothes is that I never have to go without pockets!

I decided to use viscose twill (one of my favorite fabrics for garments) for the underlining of the skirt, and made the lining several inches shorter than the lace layer to show off the lace at the bottom of the skirt. Both the lining and the lace are from Mood Fabrics.

I’m very proud of the details on this skirt. From the lace pocket overlay to the reinforced waistband and eyelash hem, the skirt feels high-quality and elegant. It’s a great piece for bringing witchy, Victorian vibes to an outfit!